Joys of the Telugu kitchen

TO feast on Telugu food in a pleasant ambience, look no further. Reputed for its well-researched, authentic recipes from homes in the regions where the dishes originated, United Telugu Kitchens (UTK) restaurant is on the must-visit list of foodies in Bengaluru. The restaurant offers cuisine that is local, authentic, and prepared with care. It showcases a curated menu, highlighting cherished recipes passed down through generations in Telugu households. Known for its dedication to preserving and presenting the vibrant flavours of Telugu cuisine, it provides authentic Telugu flavours to Bengaluru’s food enthusiasts.

The aesthetically designed contemporary interiors offer a pleasing ambience to enjoy a meal. As we entered the restaurant, a larger-than-life mural of a smiling lady welcomed us into the no-frills restaurant. Though the actor of yesteryears, Suryakantham, is in no way associated with the restaurant, she symbolizes the wholesome comfort food they serve, much like home-cooked food. She is the mascot of UTK as she has portrayed many iconic roles centred in the kitchen and spoken about food and its aromas in these roles. Her character in movies revolves around cooking in the kitchen. It is said that when she does tadka (tempering), the entire street gets a whiff of it. 

The palkova samosa | Civil Society pictures/Susheela Nair

UTK dishes out many traditional Telugu delicacies under the ‘Telugodi Style’ category, retaining their regional names. Each dish reflects the region’s rich culinary heritage featuring indigenous ingredients and time-tested cooking techniques. “Our idea was to bring the primal flavours of Telugu culinary delights from the regions of Rayalaseema, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh within one kitchen. From the minimalism of Telangana cuisine to the complex spice-filled Andhra and Rayalaseema cuisines. They are all delicious and are what you get at United Telugu Kitchens,” says Teja Chekuri, managing partner. 

“It was born from the urge to ensure that our traditions are served to everyone on a silver platter. These are dishes that we’ve grown up on, loved, and cherished. The farms, the farmers, the folk and the folklore — UTK celebrates it all, trying to connect the heart to our heartland and our motherland,” adds Chekuri. 

The focus is on preserving and celebrating the traditional flavours that have been passed down through generations in Telugu kitchens. UTK’s menu features dishes from all over Andhra and Telangana. In both states, the quantity of spice varies by area. So, as the name conveys, UTK brings all of the region’s spice levels, tastes and authenticity into one kitchen that serves many.

Under Chekuri’s ownership, UTK is a part of a group of restaurants that includes Godavari, Madras Dosa Co., Khiladi, 1947 Truly Indian, and Don’t Tell Aunty in the US and Canada. UTK and Ishtaa are his main Indian ventures in the food industry. He is also a partner in Ironhill India Breweries which holds the record of being the world’s largest microbrewery, spread across 1.3 lakh sq. ft in Bengaluru. Its USP is the mind-blowing ambience and tasty food which includes perennial favourites like koli chips (chicken chips) and the palkova samosa. 

At UTK, there are plenty of meat options for non-vegetarians.  I sampled some of the wide range of dishes offered in their menu. I started off with the chicken lemon coriander soup. This was followed by lamb soup cooked with aromatic spices. 

Murrel fish in a tangy gravy with jaggery

Then came a salvo of appetisers. Kamju Pitta Roast is quail fried and roasted with select spices. Seafood enthusiasts have a myriad of dishes to choose from the menu. The whole fish (vanjaram or seer) is marinated and tandoori-grilled with your choice of avakaya, gongura or traditional masala and is a favourite of customers. In between nibbling the starters, I sipped goli soda which comes in several flavours. Avakai Koramenu is the highlight of UTK. It is a special preparation where the fish is marinated in freshly ground Andhra spices, Avakai (Andhra  mango pickle), and grilled to perfection. 

Another seafood dish worth mentioning is Artakula Chepala Vepudu or fish wrapped in banana leaf and fried on a pan. I relished the Chepa Bellam Pulusu (murrel fish in a tangy gravy sweetened with jaggery), a dish that has a blend of sweet, sour and spicy notes. It is akin to a sweet and tangy version of Nellore Chepa Pulusu, an interesting variation.

Chitti Royyala Boondi Vepudu, tiny shrimps fried and combined with spicy boondi in a curry leaf paste, is worth a try. The shrimp used is small river shrimp which is a rarity here. In them, you can taste the meat. Chekuri says that the seafood served here can’t get any fresher. Seafood produce is sourced from Bhimavaram in West Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. 

Satiated with seafood, I tried samples of different rice dishes. UTK’s rice selection ranges from pulaos to bajaras and biryanis apart from steamed rice. The menu suggests rice dishes to pair with main courses. It recommends mamsam pulusu be had with ghee rice. But I tasted the mutton dalcha with bagara rice (a Telugu style of masala rice) pairing. It is an aromatic rice served with a lentil-mutton stew, a Hyderabadi favourite.

Vegetarians can try some of the ‘local favourites’ like Mudda Pappu Pachi Pulusu, a heartwarming blend of soft lentils and tangy tamarind-based stew, and the Mudda Pappu Avakai Annam — in which spiced mango pickle lends its piquant flavour to creamy lentils and rice. Gongura or sorrel leaves are a popular ingredient in the cuisine of this region, much like spinach in the rest of India. The Gongura Mamsa, boneless mutton cooked in gongura paste, is another example of how flavours and textures blend in the cuisine in this region.

Since we were fully satiated, we had to skip the mindboggling variety of chaats, parathas and sandwiches on offer. We rounded off the meal with an ice-cream infused with gulab jamun and paan kulfi.

Contact: United Telugu Kitchens, 160/3, SBR Gokulam Commercial, Kadukodi Main Road, Bengaluru-560007. Phone: 82969 161105